I have yet to figure out how the hours work for the bars. Maybe it is a sign that I need to find an alternate source of food.
I went to mass at la Chiesa Ognissanti then headed over to the bar near my apartment to get some coffee and a pastry. It was closed. I went over to the one near the church, it was closed.
This was a distinct problem. I walked all the way down Via Appia Nuova with no luck.
Finally, at the Piazza Re di Roma, I found a bar that was open, and it was very busy. This was a very different experience for me. So far, my experiences have been with rather quiet neighborhood places. There is another one every block or so, so they do not need to be particularly big or busy.
However, as far as I could tell, this was the only bar open in the entire neighborhood. Instead of ordering at the counter, you were supposed to go to the register and pay, and then bring your receipt to the pastry counter, and then to the bar for coffee.
Despite my mutterings and general failure at Italian, I managed to order myself a cornetto and espresso (which they just called ‘caffe’).
The cornetto I got was similar to a croissant, and it had a fantastic cream filling. It was perfectly flaky and soft, and the cream was rich but not overpowering.
The espresso was not quite as good as yesterday, and was a little more bitter, but it was delicious nonetheless.
I would recommend this place, whose name I do not remember, only if the other bars are closed. That said, it was a life saver this morning.